A Piece of Scotland in Jerusalem

Today we worshiped at St. Andrew’s Scots Memorial Church, the only Scottish church in Jerusalem as far as I know.  St. Andrew’s is part of the Presbyterian Church of Scotland and was completed in 1930 as a memorial to many Scottish soldiers who lost their lives here in World War I.

 

The church sits high on a hill with a commanding view all around Jerusalem and all the way to the Jordan Valley.  Many landmarks are visible from the church such as Mount Zion, the walls of the Old City, the city’s famous windmill, Dormition Abbey, the valley of Hinnom (”Gehenna”), and more.  You can see the Scottish flag atop the towering spire of St. Andrew’s from all over one side of Jerusalem.

The church was very welcoming and open.  We were greeted at the door by a kindly woman who showed us around and handed us a bulletin, a hymnal, and a church Bible.  I signed the guest book and we went inside the library and the Guest Lounge before entering the sanctuary.  Outside in the courtyard there were a few people sitting at tables having coffee.

As we entered the sanctuary I was eager to see the beautiful imported marble on the chancel floor and Communion table that I had heard about.  Sure enough, there was this green-veined white marble on the front of the Communion table, the baptismal font, and the pulpit.  More of this marble could be seen on the floor of the chancel area.  This marble is from the Scottish island of Iona, a well-known center for Celtic spirituality, hospitality, and ministry.  The church’s brochure playfully points out that part of the church being floored with marble from Iona means that “the minister of St. Andrew’s stands on a piece of Scotland when celebrating Communion in Jerusalem.”  How cool is that!

Also inlaid in the chancel floor is a bronze plaque that reads: “In Remembrance of the Pious Wish of King Robert Bruce, That His Heart Should Be Buried in Jerusalem.”  This refers to King Robert the Bruce of Scotland (1274-1329).  Here is how the church’s literature describes the reason for the plaque:

“The King’s dying wish was for his heart to be buried in Jerusalem.  His friend, and companion-in-arms, Sir James Douglas, undertook the task.  Carrying Bruce’s heart in a silver casket on a chain around his neck, Douglas set off.  But he was killed in battle in Spain, while en route to Jerusalem.  Bruce’s heart was returned to Scotland and buried in Melrose Abbey.  The plaque in St. Andrew’s recalls and symbolizes the King’s wish.”

 After the three of us sat down in the sanctuary (we came early), the pastor came in and talked with us.  He was a very friendly Scottish man who wanted to know all about where we were from and how we were enjoying our stay in Israel.  When he found out I am a United Methodist pastor, he told us about a young lady who is a General Board missionary who is an ecumenical partner with the church.  We exchanged emails and other information for future correspondence. 

There were only a few of us in attendance this morning but the worship service was quite beautiful and uplifting.  The service was in English and the liturgy for Holy Communion was enjoyed with a welcome familiarity.  I especially was blessed by the prayers in the service, which occurred in several places.  Since it was a fairly small group today, we all were invited to step up on the chancel and stand in a semi-circle amid the Iona marble and next to the pulpit chair with the sailing ship carved on the back.  We passed the peace of Christ and served Communion around the circle.  It was intimate, holy, and blessed.  And we were thankful.

 

After the service we were invited to stay by the courtyard for coffee, cookies, and more warm hospitality and conversation.  We met a young man who worshiped with us who was from the state of Georgia in the U.S.  The young man just started work at the United States Consulate in Jerusalem.  He said he is married and has two daughters, and if the situation stays calm enough he hopes to bring them to Jerusalem soon.

The church also has a twenty-room guest house (which might be a possibility for future groups) and a small Fair Trade gift shop featuring hand-made embroidery, baskets, wood carvings, soaps, crafts, and many other things from all over Israel.  I am a big fan of Fair Trade items: “Supporting economic self-help of women, refugees, people with disabilities, family farmers and preserving the artisan heritage.”  We went inside and I bought a nice Celtic cross that was hand-carved out of olive wood and Linda surprised me with a beautiful hand-made pulpit stole embroidered with the Jerusalem Cross! 

Being of Scottish heritage (Buchanan, you know), I was delighted to enjoy this little piece of Scotland here in the land of Israel!  I said a prayer for my friend Fred who would be preaching for me back home in another eight hours.  We all had a wonderful time and feel most blessed!

The Place of the Skull and the Garden Tomb

Today we went to a place called the Garden Tomb.  Just north of the Damascus Gate from the Old City, we walked about a block through a jumble of Arab street vendors, turned right, and found ourselves at the entrance to the garden.

Stepping through the gate was like stepping into another world.  The site of the Garden Tomb is an oasis of peace, a quiet and beautiful respite from the bustling, hurried, crowded city.  As I was getting my camera out of the bag, a brown and gray dove landed on the dirt at my feet.  Too quick for me to take his picture, I resolved to keep my eye out for him.  There were many others like him, flying around in the tall green trees that swayed in the morning breeze.  A sign of peace.

Following a rock path through the garden, we found ourselves on a platform that looked across an ancient stone quarry.  According to tradition the quarry was used by both Jews and Romans as a place of execution in ancient times.  The Bible says Jesus was crucified at a place called Golgotha, which means place of the skull.  Looking across at the cliff face opposite us, we could see the indentations for two eye sockets and a nose: the Place of the Skull.

Back in the nineteenth century a British general named Charles Gordon spent time studying this place and became convinced that this indeed was Golgotha, and that the nearby garden tomb was the tomb from which Christ emerged after the resurrection.  Without going into the details of all the archeological and historical pros and cons, I can just say that I can see what he saw in the skull-like features of that cliff face.

 

As we left that place we passed by a very deep and ancient cistern, and a large winepress (This garden would have belonged to a wealthy person, such as Joseph of Arimathea, who was a secret disciple of Jesus.  The Gospel of John even hints that there was a garden there).

Matthew 27:57-60 tells us that after Jesus died, Joseph of Arimathea went to Pontius Pilate and asked for his body.  Having obtained permission, Joseph wrapped the body of Jesus and placed the body in his own tomb which had been hewn from the rock.

A few steps more down the path and there it was – the Garden Tomb, hewn out of solid rock.  

 

You can see where one wall has been damaged by an earthquake and repaired with stones; otherwise the tomb is remarkably intact.  Inside there are burial spaces for two people and a small antechamber or “weeping chamber” through which you enter.  “This is the place,” my heart said.  The gentle guardians of this place do not insist that this is indisputably the place of the death, burial, and resurrection of Jesus, but – they sure do provide a wonderful place of contemplation, adoration, and worship.  I know what many of the historians and archaeologists say, and I also know what my spirit says.

“I am the resurrection and the life.  Those who believe in me, even though they die, will live, and everyone who lives and believes in me will never die.  Do you believe this?”  (John 11:25-26)

The Upper Room

Yesterday was the feast day of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary, a very holy day for our Catholic and Orthodox friends.  We were blessed to worship at the Benedictine Church of the Dormitio at the area of Mount Zion in Jerusalem.  Mount Zion, just outside the gates of the Old City, has been a special place since the days of King David and beyond.  While we were there we saw the remains of the city wall and a market dating back to the First Temple period, prior to 586 b.c.e.   

Around the corner from Dormition Abbey in the City of David our new friend Barbara led us up a narrow set of stone stairs and out onto the rooftop.  This rooftop is known by tradition as the place where the people gathered at Pentecost and were filled with the Holy Spirit (Acts 2).  Each year a large number of Christians gather here to celebrate the Holy Spirit.

From the rooftop we were led to a small, quiet room – the Upper Room!  Just the three of us – no crowds of tourists, no vendors hawking their wares, no one for the next ten minutes.  Soon we could hear a tour group coming up behind us, but not before we were able to take a deep breath and take it all in.  Barbara left us for a few sacred moments as we stood in the place where Jesus said, “Take, eat.  This is my body, given for you.  Do this in remembrance of me.  And this is my blood of the new covenant, poured out for you and for many for the forgiveness of sins.  Do this, as often as you drink it, in remembrance of me.”

Sometimes even a moment can be sacramental.  We would love to have had a few more moments to linger there, but we were blessed to have a few moments to ourselves in the place where the Lord served the Lord’s Supper.  Wow, wow, wow.  Just wow

Galilee, Part IV -- Toes in the Jordan and St. Peter's Fish

We got to see both the place where the Jordan enters the Sea of Galilee and the place where it flows out.  At the lower end of the lake there is a place where you can go experience the river and even be baptized if you want.  Linda and I dipped our fingers (Linda) and our toes (me) into the lovely Jordan.  The small fish were voraciously nibbling at my feet and toes so they had me DANCING in the Jordan (no pics added)!  The river in which Jesus was baptized is peaceful and beautiful.  I could have taken pictures of it all day.    

 

One of the highlights of our Galilean trip was our visit to En Gev, which is still a working fishing town on the southeastern shore of the sea.  After visiting the Jordan we went to nearby En Gev an hour or two before sunset and relaxed.  What a blessing it was to sit by the lake and watch the sunset, enjoying the fellowship and a delicious meal!  St. Peter’s Fish, of course, is the specialty of the house.  It’s your basic tilapia and when it’s caught fresh from the Sea of Galilee it becomes St. Peter’s fish.  It was served pan-fried and finished on the grill with onions, garlic, lime, and tomato, along with baked potato and cabbage salad (slaw).  Dina also had the fish, and Linda had a pasta Alfredo which was also wonderful.  Accompanying our meal was a very nice Galilean Chardonnay.

 

After our meal we walked the dock and looked across at the now-lit skyline, and the working fishing boats in dock at rest for the night.  I don’t think I will ever, ever forget the Sea of Galilee.

Galilee Part III -- Bethsaida and Kursi

On our second day we went to the place where the Jordan River enters the Sea of Galilee and turned north towards the village of Bethsaida.  Here is a site of quite extensive excavations being conducted by the University of Nebraska and a number of participating partners.  

 

The excavations reveal quite an elaborate town with narrow streets, houses, and city gate.  Bethsaida is mentioned several times in scripture and is said to be the birthplace of Phillip, Andrew, and Peter as well as a place that Jesus visited frequently.  Bethsaida is mentioned in the New Testament more than any other city besides Jerusalem and Capernaum.  The lively fishing village was the place where Jesus performed some of his most well-known miracles, including the two-stage healing of the blind man (Mark 8:22-26):

“They came to Bethsaida.  Some people brought a blind man to him and begged him to touch him.  Ht took the blind man by the hand and led him out of the village; and when he had put saliva on his eyes an laid his hands on him, he asked him, ‘Can you see anything?’ And the man looked up and said, ‘I can see people, but they look like trees, walking.’  Then Jesus laid his hands on his eyes again; and he looked intently and his sight was restored, and he saw everything clearly.”

This always reminds me of a friend who used to say, “Be patient with me; God’s not finished with me yet!”

 

After we left Bethsaida we once again followed the shoreline all the way around until we were on the east side of the lake.  There is a national park here at a place called Kursi.  With the Sea of Galilee in front and the Golan Heights rising behind it, Kursi is known by Christian tradition as the place where Jesus cast demons out of two Gadarene, or Gerasene, men and commanded them to enter a nearby herd of swine which promptly stampeded into the sea.  There was once a Byzantine monastery there, the remains of which can still be seen.  There are some intriguing paths and resting places within the park. 

Galilee, Part II -- Capernaum and Tabgha

We often think of Nazareth as Jesus’ hometown.  True, it was his boyhood home but the city of Capernaum was pretty much his home when he was an adult.  “He left Nazareth and made his home in Capernaum by the sea” (Matthew 4:13).  This was also the home of Peter and Andrew and of one of the first synagogues in which Jesus taught.   Here he called the fishermen: Peter and Andrew, James and John, and from here he launched his public ministry.  

When we came to Capernaum we saw that large portions of the town had been excavated and stone walls of the houses could be seen.  There were remnants of the synagogue that had been built on the site of the one in which Jesus preached and taught, and there was Peter’s house where Jesus healed Peter’s mother-in-law who had a fever.  Perched in mid-air over Peter’s house like a spaceship is a modern church which is a little odd but beautiful.

We walked and sat for quite a while in Capernaum.  One of my favorite things was to walk through the old fishing village among the ancient houses and think of those whom the Lord first called to be his disciples.  The lake water level is lower now than it was then, but even now the water is only a few yards away.  
 

To the west of Capernaum is a little-known but very wonderful place called Tabgha.  When we went by there the first day the gates were closed, so we returned the next day.  Tabgha is the place where Jesus frequently withdrew to a “lonely (eremos, from the word for hermit) place” to refresh his spirit and to pray.  It was here, also, that Jesus fed the multitude with five loaves and two fish.  It is one of those places where you can feel the lively presence of the Spirit.

There is a nice Benedictine monastery there, and inside there is a church with beautiful mosaic tile floors.  We enjoyed perusing the gift shop there and seeing all the souvenir items that were dedicated to the loaves-and-fishes event.  

Galilee, Part I

The first time I saw the Sea of Galilee it was smaller than I expected; the second time I saw it, it was larger than I remembered.

On Sunday – Monday of this week we spent two days in the region where Jesus spent the heart of his ministry.  We got a room in Tiberias on the western shore, the largest town on the lake.  From there we rented a car and drove wherever we wanted, eventually circumnavigating the entire sea.  Last week when we were here we had an enjoyable boat-ride, which Linda aptly described on her blog http://ourpilgrimagetoisrael.blogspot.com/.  For this visit we went to see many of the places which became headquarters for Jesus and the twelve.

 

Driving north out of Tiberias the first town we came to was Magdala, home of Mary, and then Gennesaret.  This is one of the places where Jesus and the disciples landed in their crossings (Mark 6:53-56).  Driving on around the northwest part of the lake, the Mount of the Beatitudes soon became visible high on the left.  

The mountain where Jesus delivered the Sermon on the Mount (Matthew 5,6,7) slopes down to the sea and gives a commanding view.  To the left we could see Capernaum, which was the home of Peter and the home base for Jesus’ Galilean ministry.   

On top of the mountain, of course, is another beautiful church.  One thing that is striking about this church is the beauty of the landscaping and the gardens all around.   

Looking out from the church we could see the kind of natural amphitheater where the crowds would sit and listen to Jesus.  My heart was breaking to think of how far we have strayed from these simple, direct teachings regarding simplicity, humility, peacemaking, forgiveness, generosity, serving God rather than hoarding money, refraining from judging others, treating others as we would like to be treated, speaking the truth, practicing prayer and learning to trust.  If all who call themselves Christians could just TRY to live by the real teachings of Jesus from this mountain, it would be a better world.  Not only that, but there would be a credible, countercultural Christian witness that would actually attract people to Christ and his Church.

I came away with a tear in my eye and a renewed commitment to try to follow these teachings of Jesus as best I can, and with the help of God, to teach them.

From here, on to Capernaum...